This whole week I have been sitting in a classroom in Miami learning a new aircraft. Not exactly adventurous story telling material. So, even though I stated in my first entry that I was not going to recap any of my stories from the past due to lack of memory, I have decided there are a few stories that are very worth telling. Even if I don’t remember all the details.
One of my favorite stories in particular was the time I went to Costa Rica for a week long stay in a rainforest eco lodge. A few years ago, back in 2006, when I was working with the airlines, I took one of my most adventurous vacations yet. I won’t go into detail about how I discovered this lodge, but it was not your typical tourists resort, and aside for an old traveling hippie, I was the only guest. But the adventure started not when I got to the lodge, but traveling there, it was quite an ordeal.
First off, let me point out the fact that the majority of people living in Costa Rica do not speak English. And, aside for a few vital words like Hello, Please, Thank you, Bathroom, and Beer, I do not speak Spanish. A very sad fact, seeing how at one time, I lived in Puerto Rico.
I was traveling alone on this trip, as I did on most of my travels at that point in life. When I arrived in San Juan, I had to take a taxi from the airport to the bus station, which is not a problem since all airports are loaded down with taxi’s eager to take your money. When I got to the bus station I was due to call the owner of the eco lodge and get more thorough instructions on how exactly to get to the lodge. Unfortunately, I couldn’t figure out how to work the dang payphones and couldn’t find anyone who spoke English to help me. No worries, I knew what bus to get on to take me to San Isidro El General and from there I would figure it out. So I board the very crowded bus and 2 hours later arrive in San Isidro. I knew I had to go up into the mountains to a little town called Pura Suerte, and I knew the taxi needed to be 4 wheel drive. What I did not know was how to say 4 wheel drive in Spanish. The first taxi driver that grabbed me after stepping off the bus, of course, did not speak English. But when I told him Pura Suerte he nodded excitedly, “Si, Si Seniora.” I tried to sign language 4 wheel drive to him in the most crude sign language imaginable, and he just shook his head, “Si, Si”. Okay, whatever, your hired. We head off to his car and as soon as I see the tiny 4 door clunker he is driving the worry I had been suppressing all day started to creep up. But, I figured, He says he knows where this place is so that must mean this rust bucket is capable. So I climb in and we head up the muddy dirt road into the rainforest. And I mean UP! I couldn’t believe how steep these unpaved roads were! Along the way we would pass random houses, and after about 45min. of driving, my driver began stopping every 3-4 houses. “Un Momento” He would say to me while he jumped out of the car, ran up to the house, conversed with the inhabitants, and then ran back to me. “Mui Bien” he would say reassuringly, and we would continue on. I was getting a sneaking suspicion that he didn’t know where Pura Suerte was after all. About 2 hours into the drive up the mountain, it was dark and starting to rain and my driver pulled over in front of a big gate leading into a cow field. “Pura Suerte!” He exclaimed to me as he grabbed a flashlight and got out of the car. “No! No Pura Suerte!” I yelled after him as I jumped out to try and stop him. I knew from the description I had been given that this was most definitely not my destination point. The driver looked at me angrily, shook his head and went back to the car. To my dismay, instead of continuing on up the road, he turned around and started heading back down! I was not going all the way back to San Isidro, so I urged him to stop at the next house and get me a phone. I called my contact at the lodge and put him on the phone with my driver. He explained, in Spanish, that we only had to drive about 10 more minutes up the road and we would be in the town of Pura Suerte. A few minutes later the owner of the eco lodge met us on his 4 wheeler. He cursed out my driver for claiming to have a 4 wheel drive vehicle and knowing where Pura Suerte was. We threw my bag on the back of the 4 wheeler, I climbed on, and off we went. We pulled up to the common house of the property and went inside. The Eco Lodge is basically 500 acres bought up by a group of five American hippies. They built 5 bamboo huts scattered around the property which they rent out for $20 a day. They also have an organic farming and reforestation project which the majority of the land is devoted too. None of the huts were being used at the time, so I had my pick of any of them to stay in for my week. I choose the Jungle Valley hut. The hut farthest out in the rainforest and the most secluded. Again we climbed on the 4 wheeler and drove the half mile to the hut. It was a small round bamboo hut, fully enclosed on one side with a half wall on the other side. A small walkway out to one side led to the sink, compost toilet, and outdoor shower (which, by the way, taking an outdoor shower in the middle of the rainforest with absolutely no one around is a really cool experience in itself). The owner showed me around, and then told me not to leave the lights on too long, that will attract bugs. Bugs! In the rainforest!?! That’s all I needed to hear! As soon as he left I very quickly washed up, jumped in the bed (after a very thorough inspection under the covers), and turned out the light. Laying there in the total darkness, alone, in the middle of the jungle, I suddenly questioned myself. What was I thinking! Just then I heard a mysterious creature flying back and forth over my head, inside the hut. Ugh! I kept my head under the covers the rest of the night, only peering out now and then checking hopefully for daylight.
Finally, after a very broken night of sleep, the first signs of dawn started to peer into my hut. Right as I started to relax a little, I heard the most terrifying sound I have ever heard in my life! It literally sounded like there were dinosaurs outside my hut. (Come to find out later in the day, these were actually Howler monkeys, now I know where they got the name.) I lay there paralyzed with fear until it stopped. When I felt like a safe amount of time had passed I peered out from under the covers and saw, for the first time, the beautiful view from my little hut. The side of the hut with the low half wall had a porch wrapped around the outside, lined with hammocks, overlooking the most stunning valley. I could not believe the beauty I was completely surrounded by. All concerns and fears melted away and I became completely immersed in the place for the next several days. I befriended the old hippie staying up at the common lodge, the only other guest, and he took to showing me around. Exploring the jungle and surrounding village. He introduced me to a couple more hippies living in a small house overlooking another beautiful valley. At one point, one of the men from the house went to the side of the house, picked some various fruits from the trees, and made us fresh smoothies. So cool!
I asked the lodge owner if I could go horseback riding, so he asked one of the village men to take me out the following day. I ended up having my own private 3 hour tour of the jungle and surrounding land, on horseback, all for $20! We even stopped at a beautiful massive waterfall, at which time my guide got off of, and tied up his horse. While pulling out his machete he instructed me to do the same. Granted, he did not speak English. Uh, yea, Giant Gulp! He smiled, seeing I was nervous and confused and pointed up to the waterfall. We were going to the top and he was going to chop our way up! I felt so adventurous!
Every night I ate dinner at the common house with the one (and only) owner of the lodge that I had met, his girlfriend, and the old hippie. Food and Beer was included in my $20 a night fee. One night after a few too many beers, the dark of night had crept up and I still had to walk out to my hut. Every other night I was sure to be in my hut before night fell. The owner gave me a head lamp for my walk, and with no concerns in mind, I took off on the half mile trek alone. I was walking along, enjoying the quiet of the jungle, when all of a sudden a flying insect as big as my face and attracted to the light on my head, literally landed on my face! All I saw were legs coming at me! I screamed and took off running at a full sprint waving my hands frantically at my face. I would love to have a video of that little moment. It still makes me laugh to think of how crazy I must have looked and sounded. And there was no one around to see it! I ran all the way back to my hut!
Thankfully, aside for the terrifyingly loud howler monkeys, and the face eating insect, I was in harmony with the jungle the rest of my stay. It was an incredible experience and something I will never forget. Especially after looking at myself in the mirror for the first time in 5 days, after I left the lodge. Now that was probably the most terrifying moment out of the whole week! The jungle life does not do wonders to the skin and hair!